Reel Shimano Sahara RD

One of the most important components of our reel is the drag. Consequently, proper drag calibration is one of the crucial factors that can make the difference between success and failure on a recreational fishing trip.
The drag is one of the features that allows us to land fish that are even heavier than we are.
How do we know which drag is best for our reel?

• THE PURPOSE OF THE BRAKE
• THE BRAKE ON A FIXED-SPOOL REEL
• THE BRAKE ON A SPINNING REEL
• BRAKE CALIBRATION
• ADJUSTING THE BRAKE DURING THE FIGHT
• BRAKE MAINTENANCE

THE USEFULNESS OF THE BRAKE
Until the advent of the brake on fishing reels, anglers had to settle for catching only fish they could control with their own physical strength. Previously, the spool was turned or allowed to turn in the opposite direction, and that was how line was given to the fish.
With the introduction of brakes, we gained the ability to catch larger fish.
The drag applies pressure to the spool, allowing it to slip and release line the moment it is subjected to pressure. This allows the fish to escape by pulling on the line, physically tiring it out so that it can be landed more easily later.
Each fishing line has a rated strength—that is, a dead weight capacity it can bear without breaking; if this limit is exceeded, it will break. The drag system ensures that the reel releases line before reaching the breaking point.

THE BRAKE ON A FIXED-SPOOL REEL
Fixed-spool reels remain stationary while we let out or retrieve the line. These are the quintessential casting reels; they have great pulling power, making them extremely well-suited for fishing medium-sized species.
The greater the line load, the better our chances of casting farther. However, it’s never a good idea to overload the reel, as this can cause the line to spill over the spool and result in those dreaded knots.
Among fixed-spool reels, depending on the model, there are two different types of brakes:

• Front: features a disc at the front of the spool, which is tightened or loosened by turning the front knob.
• Rear: features a knob on the back that can be turned in either direction to adjust the reel.

Front brakes are adjusted using a knob that rotates; turning it clockwise tightens the brake, and turning it counterclockwise loosens it.
Many anglers consider these front brakes more reliable for fixed-spool reels, although it’s also true that they tend to overheat easily because the friction surface is small.
The rear drag is more precise, with the advantage that it can be adjusted while the fish is being fought. Even so, many anglers avoid it because they consider it less reliable.
We also offer reels with central brakes, which aim to combine the qualities of the other two types of brakes while also providing greater braking capacity; in addition to the increased size.

THE BRAKE ON A SPINNING REEL
Spinning reels are those in which the spool rotates when casting and retrieving the line. They stand out from the previous types due to their enormous drag power, a feature that makes them perfect for catching large fish but does not make them particularly suitable for casting.
Here, too, we can discuss two different models:

• Star drag: a star-shaped component located on the side of the reel, below the handle. It is tightened by turning clockwise and loosened by turning counterclockwise.
  Ideal for surf casting, as it allows the spool to be completely released at the moment of the cast.
  This is a braking system that acts directly on the spool release button, so the drag disengages completely, allowing the spool to spin freely without any pressure on the drag, which enables long-distance casts.
  Despite this, one drawback is the difficulty in handling it while fighting a fish, since there are no reference points for the drag setting.
  It has a relatively small friction surface, so it tends to overheat. The drag exerts uneven pressure on the spool, causing fluctuations that can lead to breakage.
• Lever Drag: a lever located on the side of the reel.
  It is the most reliable and efficient type of brake of all, since it never allows the spool to unwind 100%.
  It applies very even braking across the entire surface of the spool. But in addition to this, and as its main advantage, it’s worth noting that we can precisely and gradually increase or decrease the brake tension during the fight, in a safe and fully controlled manner.
  Despite this, many still prefer to use the star drag, due to the complications involved in using the lever drag.

CALIBRATING THE BRAKE
To properly adjust a brake, we must first take into account the strength of the fishing line we are using. We must pay close attention to the relationship between the line’s diameter and its strength, since—as any angler knows—there are many different fishing lines manufactured by various companies, each offering a different strength.
While fishing, the line will be subjected to a great deal of pushing and pulling, which can cause it to break; to prevent this, we have the drag. The question then arises at this point: how do you know when the drag should start to slip? As has been determined, this is necessary to properly absorb the impacts and sudden movements made by the fish as it fights to avoid being caught, the drag should give line when it receives a violent pull equivalent to one-third (1/3) of the line’s rated strength. Thus, if we have a fishing line with a breaking strength of 30 kilograms, the drag should slip when the pull reaches a force of 10 kilograms; if it does not, we run a serious risk of the line breaking.
In this way, the other two-thirds will help absorb the force and prevent the line from breaking when it is subjected to a very strong impact.
Therefore, to calibrate a drag, it is essential to be able to measure the force exerted by a sudden, violent pull. Dynamometer-type scales are available for this purpose (which can also be used to measure the weight of our catches).
Once you have this scale, to perform the calibration, follow these steps:

1. Mount the reel on the rod you plan to use; this is very important—always calibrate with the reel mounted on the actual fishing setup you’ll be using, since the rod’s characteristics significantly affect the force transmitted to the line in each case.
2. Once the reel is mounted, thread the line through the guides and secure the rod (ask a friend for help).
3. Adjust the reel by hand, calibrating it to your best judgment.
4. Attach the float to the end of the line, using a plastic ring to mark the maximum point the float will reach when you give it a sharp tug.
5. Give the rod a sharp tug and check the maximum point reached by the float.
6. Adjust the drag so that the needle does not exceed the plastic ring at the desired maximum power.
7. Repeat the process several times until the drag slips at the desired resistance level (1/3 of the line’s resistance).

ADJUSTMENT DURING THE FIGHT
Another major issue with drag calibration is its use during the fight. A fish that has taken the bait won’t let itself be reeled in passively, and it’s essential to know the correct way to use the drag if you don’t want to lose even the best catch.
On top of all this, we must consider the effect of water on the line; when combined with the line’s own weight, this means that the more line we have in the water, the greater the load placed on the entire line. Therefore, it is necessary to adjust the drag setting based on the amount of line that is out (which is why it may sometimes be necessary to set it as low as one-quarter of the line’s rated strength).
Thus, as we have less line on the reel, we must decrease the drag rather than increase it to prevent breakage.
BRAKE MAINTENANCE
Keep the following tips in mind to keep your reel’s drag in perfect condition.

• The first and most important point to consider when caring for the drag is storage. When storing the reel, make sure to do so with the drag completely released (on spinning reels, loosen the drag completely).
• Avoid overheating the drag. As we’ve already mentioned, this overheating can certainly be common when you’re in the middle of a fight with a fish. In those cases, it’s best to cool the reel with water, but not on the center part (that won’t help at all), but on the side.
  Saltwater can damage the reel, but this is better than letting it overheat.
• After a tough fight to land a fish, it’s a good idea to give the reel a thorough cleaning.

In addition to these simple tips, a good rule of thumb is to have the reel inspected by a specialist mechanic, who can determine whether or not it needs to be replaced.

Before deciding which fishing reel to buy, you should consider what type of fishing you’ll be doing. However, it’s also extremely important to know and understand the specifications and features of the reels available on the market.
KEY CONSIDERATIONS FOR CHOOSING

• Types of Reels: Depending on the type of fishing you plan to do, you can find casting, spincast, surfcasting, spinning, baitrunner, or trolling reels, among others. If you’re new to the world of fishing, opt for a standard-range reel so you can try out various disciplines before settling on one.
• Manufacturer: Ask your fishing buddies which manufacturer works best for each discipline, although, as with everything, this is a personal opinion and may not always be accurate. The most important thing is to trust manufacturers that use high-quality materials and offer durable, sturdy reels.
• Material: Aluminum and graphite are the materials of choice for anglers. The typical choice for freshwater reels is aluminum, while graphite is preferred for saltwater reels due to its corrosion-resistant properties.
• Solid Construction: It is very important that the manufacturer be reliable, the material be appropriate, and the body or construction of our reel be completely solid, with no loose parts. It is also well known that reels with fewer parts are less likely to break.
• Weight: Lighter reels will help reduce wrist and arm fatigue, but in other cases, we need a heavier reel given the characteristics of our discipline and the demands it places on us.
• Size: Freshwater fish are generally smaller than saltwater fish, so, with some exceptions, freshwater reels will be slightly smaller in comparison.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF THE REEL

• Line Capacity: defined in yards and pounds, refers to the maximum amount of line or thread in yards that the reel can hold and the maximum weight that this line can support. In other words, a reel labeled 450/20 indicates that it holds 450 yards of line and can handle a maximum weight of 20 lb.
• Brake or Drag: A reel’s brake system consists of washers arranged on the spool shaft and, in some cases, on the drive shaft. The mechanism works by applying lever pressure to the washers, increasing resistance as the pressure increases. On some reels, such as trolling or baitcasting reels, star-style brakes (screw-action) or lever-style brakes (cam-type, easier to adjust) may be found.
• Line Retrieval: Refers to the length of line that is wound onto the spool for each turn of the reel handle.
• Gear Ratio: This is the number of spool revolutions that occur for each turn of the handle. This ratio is indicated by a number such as 6:1, which means that for every turn of the handle, the spool will turn 6 times. How to choose the right ratio:
  • Low Gears (5.1:1 to 5.1:1): Ideal for deep water, large soft plastics, and spinnerbaits. Suitable for heavy lures, reducing the effort required to retrieve them. Very effective for heavy lures.
  • Medium gear ratios (6.1:1 to 6.4:1): ideal for medium depths, shallow spinnerbaits, and crankbaits. These gear ratios are very versatile and offer extra speed for fishing with action.
  • High-gear ratios (7.1:1 to 8.1:1): for lightweight soft plastics and worms, shaky heads, and crankbaits without a lip. Here, the rod provides the action, and we need a reel with a high gear ratio to allow us to retrieve the lure at high speed.
• Bearings: These are placed inside the reel to provide greater support, stability, and smoothness when reeling. The more bearings there are, the smoother the feel will be. They are usually labeled as 7+1, 6+1, or 8+1, where the higher number indicates the number of bearings and the number on the right indicates the number of ball bearings in each bearing.
• Drag: This is indicated in kg and refers to the maximum tension that the reel’s drag system can exert. If the tension exerted by the fish is greater than this, the reel will release the line to prevent breakage.
• Fish Weight: The choice of reel will depend on the type of fish you want to catch:
  • Ultralight 1000–2000: for fish up to 2 kg.
  • Light 2500–3000: for fish weighing 1 to 4 kg.
  • Medium 4000: for fish weighing 2 to 6 kg.
  • Medium Heavy 5000: for fish weighing 4 to 6 kg.
  • Heavy 7000: for fish over 8 kg.

The fishing reel is one of the most important tools—along with the rod—in the world of fishing. To get the best performance from your reel, you should maintain and clean it after every use. If we don’t follow this process, the parts will gradually weaken, and the reel will stop working properly over time. To prevent this and extend the reel’s lifespan even further, follow these steps:

• Initial Cleaning: Remove any sand and dirt with a fine-bristled brush, then wipe it down with a soft cloth to avoid scratching the surface, and finally apply a small amount of light oil to the body and the disassembled parts (handle, brake cap, spool, and reel body).
• Lubrication: Next, lubricate the spool, the drag, the handle, the main shaft, and the line guide, as these moving parts need to be lubricated regularly.
• Line Guide: We must pay special attention to this part of the reel, as it requires the most maintenance due to its constant contact with water. We can carefully disassemble it, keeping the parts organized as we remove them. We will then clean them thoroughly and lubricate them before reassembling the line guide.
• Central spool: This part should never be disassembled, but using a small dropper, we can apply a couple of drops of oil directly to the internal mechanism.
• Handle: Finally, we’ll thoroughly clean the handle, apply a little oil to the moving parts, and then clean and dry it.

If you have any questions about the process, always consult the cleaning guide included in your reel’s box, and under nounder any circumstances open the reel body, since if you encounter any malfunction, it is best to have it inspected by the manufacturer.